Tender’s bronze buckle belts are cut, sewn, and gold foil stamped by hand in England, from leather tanned for 18 months in England using oak bark liquor. The buckles are lost wax-cast in England from solid bronze, using a caster’s pattern hand constructed in England. Tender’s main line belt buckles are lost wax-cast in brass, an alloy of copper and zinc. These buckles, however, are bronze, a similar alloy but with a higher copper content. The extra copper gives bronze a slightly darker, pinker, cast, and over time it will patinate darker than brass does.
The ‘wire’ buckle was the first buckle in Tender’s collection, and is an experiment around the idea of a standard pin buckle. A normal pin belt buckle has the pin mechanically bent over the box. As the buckle is solid cast, this is no good, because bronze cannot be safely bent into shape after casting. So instead of a box and a pin, the Wire buckle consists of two interlocking continuous wires, which fit together easily, and are held in place by the belt itself. The belt is 1½” wide. The ‘keeper’ buckle is set onto the same belt, and is constructed across two levels. The upper level doubles back on itself at the front, reversing the standard horseshoe so that the separately cast tongue sits neatly in the gap between the two halves of the front section. The back section sweeps back in one, holding the belt firmly in place without a leather keeper.
The frame buckle is constructed from a single wire, which loops around to hold a single-width tongue bar. For this 1⅛” belt, there is not enough width for a double-width tongue, so the tongue has to fit over the frame, rather than vise-versa. Because of this, if no parts of the buckle are to be bent after casting, the frame itself has to be open, like a keyring. The tongue is looped over the frame, and is held in place when the belt is sewn on.
The ‘fork’ buckle is the first in Tender’s collection to have two prongs. The fastening mechanism is similar in concept to a standard Westrn plate buckle. However the stud on a plate buckle points inwards, and can pop out if the wearer’s jeans are pushing against it too hard. The two prongs on this fork buckle point outwards so that the mechanism becomes more secure as pressure is put on it from inside.
The leather is heavily greased, which can leave a white residue on the surface of the skin- this will rub off easily, and is a desireable characteristic of this natural product.
If your size is not listed with your chosen buckle, please contact us, as it may be possible to make a belt up for you