Over a year in development,Tender 19oz extra heavy cross weave denim is woven in England on an unbleached ringspun cotton warp usually used for industrial conveyor belts. Denim is normally woven with an indigo warp and an ecru weft, but cross weave denim reverses this- the weft is Japanese rope-dyed ringspun 25 dips indigo cotton yarn. To ensure a deep colour, extra picks (weft lines) are pushed in, resulting in a very firm, tightly-woven, cloth. Despite this, cross weave denim shows more ecru yarn and textural variation than a standard denim. The appearance of the fabric was inspired by a pair of vintage British Rail worker’s uniform trousers, cut from a lightweight denim with a very distinct twill line.With wear the deep indigo from the weft yarn will lift and transfer onto the ecru warp, resulting in fades in the indigo and reverse staining onto the raw cotton.

Cross weave denim jeans are cut at right angles to the fabric (jeans are usually cut along the roll), so the indigo weft runs up and down the leg, as a warp normally would.The cloth is woven in a left hand twill, but cut as jeans it appears to run to the right. Consequently, although this is a left hand twill fabric the jeans skew clockwise, as a right hand twill normally would.

A ‘doppler’ version of this fabric has graded weft stripes of Ryeland wool woven in with the indigo cotton.


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