This piece was originally written for the Tender Stores newsletter. If you would like to sign up for our occasional mailing list please click here.

On Spring / Summer 2024

 

This production of clothing is a little different from previous collections. It consists of remixes of past designs, fabrics, and dyes, recontextualising ideas with updates to patterns and construction details. Fabrics woven in the UK and lying deadstock in the sewing factory, some for more than a decade, are given new life in edited forms of clothes that have been particular favourites of mine and which have been tested in daily life over many years.

 

Befitting the process-focussed nature of this collection, studio photographs were taken by Rory Cole with a large format camera directly onto 10×8” black and white photographic paper.The images are therefore inverted and reversed.The cover photograph, taken in the same way, shows prints hanging to dry and is an inverted and reversed image of inverted and reversed images.

Type 453 Double Cuff Mandolin Pocket Shirt

The Double Cuff Mandolin Pocket Shirt came about because the loom on which the fabric was woven is wider than the table on which it was cut. Because of this problem the ends of the roll were cut off, leaving a wide roll of fabric suitable for standard cutting, and two narrow rolls, too small for most pattern pieces.

The Mandolin Pocket Shirt is cut with seams along the front body and sleeve, and the back body and sleeve, with a single very long narrow strip that runs from the cuff, up the sleeve, down the side of the body, zigzagging back on itself to form a side hand pocket. This panel piece makes good use of the narrow rolls of fabric, and creates a minimalist pocket, similar to 2018’sTesseract Shirt, and reminiscent of the traditional mandolin vegetable slicing tool.

The seam ends at the cuffs and hem are split open, so the shirt has a double cuff, with two buttons and two sets of pleats on each hand, and four side splits.

Type 497 Open Shoulder Floor Shirt

Combining the shape and construction of 2020’s Floor Shirt with the shoulders of 2014’s Driver’s Jacket and classicTender shirt cuffs,the Open Shoulder Floor Shirt is constructed with elongated front and back panels which overlap, forming a double thickness open yoke at the shoulders without any additional seams.The back yoke is held in place by the size label, which is sewn all the way through the back and fronts.

Cut from Tricolore Weft Cotton Canvas, this can be worn as a heavier shirt or, very nicely, as a lightweight summer jacket.

Shirts are sewn with ecru 100% cotton thread and fastened with black melamine Savile Row tailor’s fly buttons.

Here’s a special jacket, just for the Stores, that was made up after the main season’s production. Using the 916 single breasted Common Coat pattern from Autumn/Winter 2023, the 1½ Breasted Common Coat is pulled in slightly at the front, with a wider wrap somewhere between single and double breasted. The jackets are fully lined, depending on the different versions either in the exact same fabric as the outer, or the striped version, or a plain calico.

 

Paired with mismatched colours and patterns of the same Casement fabrics in Type 122 Pleat Back jeans, these make up a relaxed suit, a first from Tender.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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This piece was originally written for the Tender Stores newsletter. If you would like to sign up for our occasional mailing list please click here.