In traditional bespoke tailoring, a detail sometimes requested is a cigar (or pen) pocket inside the coat breast. This pocket usually sits just below a standard breast pocket across the facing, and is deep and narrow to hold a cigar tube. Whereas a breast pocket is lined with a smooth finished cotton pocketing, cigar pockets are required to protect their contents from jolting, so a raised flannel fabric is used. However it is also important to reduce the thickness of the pocket, and avoid spoiling the line of the coat, so the fabric is only raised on one side.

The Cigar Pocket cloth used for garments is a half flannel- it is woven in England as a plain weave and then heavily raised on one side only. Shirts and jackets are cut with the flannel on the inside of the garment, so they appear simple from the outside but are luxuriously soft on the inside.