Pocket watches commissioned by the British government for military issue during the 1930s and 40s were often engraved with the initials G.S./T.P., for General Service / Trade Pattern. While many Swiss manufacturers produced these watches, the pattern remained the same- a black or cream dial with Arabic numbers at each hour, some filled with luminous material. There was a subsidiary dial at 6 for the seconds hand, and the maker’s signature, from the likes of Jaeger LeCoultre, Helvetia, Buren, Leonidas, and many others, was printed at 12. The dial was designed for maximum legibility, and the large 19’” gilt jewelled movements were built to be reliable and hard-wearing.
GS/TP (General Service Time Piece) wristwatches are designed in England by William Kroll, of Tender Co., and take inspiration from the British military and ordnance instruments of the first half of the 20th Century. They are produced in a small factory in Tokyo, housing movements made in Japan by Miyota and Seiko-Epson. Orders are dispatched from the Tender Stores, in the UK.

GS/TP’s Goliath Journey dial is an interpretation of the large station clocks on the British railways. The double rail minutes track with large triangle and diamond shaped 5-minutes markers, and odd-hour numerals allow for quick and precise timekeeping at a glance across a crowded platform.

The Trade Pattern watch takes its name from the standard design for British army pocket watches produced during World War II. Indices are heavily filled with yolk-coloured paint, and a full railroad minute track allows for precise timekeeping. Note the unpainted dashes corresponding to the painted numbers at 3,9, and 12, and the wholly unpainted markers at 6, which would have been overlapped by a small seconds dial in the original pocket watches. The polished steel pencil hands are filled with matching yolk coloured paint, and the whole dial is magnified by the high domed plexiglass crystal, subtly etched with a ‘G’ in the centre. The engraved screw-down crown is heavily ridged and wears quite large relative to the 28mm cushion case, recalling the tool watches that inspired it.

Special Edition A.R.P (Air Raid Precaution) blackout watch cases have been vapour-coated with a hard matt black surface. During World War II, British towns and cities were subject to a ‘dim-out’, where no light brighter than moonlight was permitted, or full black-outs, during air raids, where no light at all was allowed, and windows were fully shuttered. Military equipment was blackened to prevent reflections being spotted by enemy aircraft. The Sector dial is inspired by 1930s wristwatch dials, divided into distinct areas, radiating from the centre. The egg yolk painted hour hashes are pointed to resemble torpedoes closing on a target, and the GS/TP handwinder icon, indicating that this watch houses a Japanese-made Miyota 17 jewel manual movement, appears across the inner sector.

GS/TP’s Telegraph watch draws influence from Morse Code operator’s pocket watches produced in the early 20th Century by various makers, including the West End Watch Co. of St-Imier, Switzerland. Rather than spelling out full numbers to express times, using these watches as a key the time could be tapped out as a single letter, from ‘A’ at 1am to ‘Z’ at midnight. AM times are printed in red around the outer ring, and PM is in blue.

GS/TP’s Goliath Recorder dial is adapted from early pilots’ watches, which had a rotating bezel with a pointer which could be lined up with the minutes hand. By using the precise scale around the outside of the hours markers (numbered in 10 minute intervals) the wearer could keep a record of elapsed time. This allowed the watch to act as a basic chronograph without a more complicated movement. 

Complete dial watches, with Military Black or Belfast Grey pad-printed brass faces, reference watches made for the American military by Waltham, and for the railways by companies including Universal Geneve and Longines. The outer track shows minutes and seconds, with dashes at each index, and a two-digit marker at the 5s. Stepped in from that are even-numbered hour markers, filled with egg yolk yellow paint, and spaced with spots at the odd-numbers hours. The inner ring shows odd-numbered PM hours in 24-hour military format. The dial is signed below 12 o’clock, with the handwinder arrow logo above 6 o’clock. The special edition A.R.P black-out case has been vapour coated, and houses a Japanese-made Miyota hand wound 17 jewel movement.

The Fried Eggs watch takes its dial layout from a British compass of the type used by the Ordnance Survey. Compass points have been replaced with large numbers at 12,3,6, and 9, with a full railway minutes track and dashes at the half-hours. The unnumbered hours are marked with ‘fried eggs’, filled off-centre with thick egg yolk paint, echoing the design of the markers on Universal Genève’s iconic Polerouter Submariner watches of the early 1960s. The custom-milled surgical steel case is quad-screwed with a frog back, finished with linear brushing on the sides, radial brushing on the back, and mirror polishing on the bezel, and houses a high grade Japanese-made Seiko-Epson quartz movement.

This dial design recalls the leaf aperture of a mechanical camera lens. The concentric rings of dashed minutes markers have alternate spaces, forming a spiral pattern which starts as a full hour set in the outermost ring, and ends with hash markers for odd hours, and numerals for even hours, in the innermost ring.

GS/TP watches are made and assembled in Tokyo. Accurate and dependable Japanese movements are housed in three-part cases, custom-milled from stainless steel blocks, with engraved crowns and crystals. Hands are pressed from sheet steel, and are blued or polished, depending on the dial colour with which they are to be paired, before being filled egg-yolk yellow, by hand. The dials are cut from brass, dial feet are soldered into place to locate the dial onto the movement, and the dials are painted with a base layer of black or cream before being pad printed. Pad printing requires a soft etched pad to be inked and stamped precisely onto the dial, leaving a clean, slightly raised design. Separate pads are used for each colour printed onto the dial. Watches are then assembled and adjusted by hand, using fine hand tools.

The hand-wound Cherry Pie watch dial has even number hour spots filled with cherry red paint, based on a modified Moeris A.T.P (Army Trade Pattern) example from the 1940s. The radial dial markings, separating the slices of the pie, mark the half hours, with 24 hour indices at the odd hours. The handwinder arrow logo is at 6 o’clock, and the polished steel hands have been filled cherry red to match the dial. The watch is powered by a 17 jewel Miyota movement, made in Japan, and the case is milled in Tokyo. This special edition is vapour coated black, echoing wartime black-out restrictions, and is fitted on a black nylon NATO strap, with vapour coated steel hardware.

GS/TP’s Goliath Navigator design is inspired by the large multi-register aeroplane navigator watches of the 1950s. It has a full 60-minutes track with inner and outer markers at 5-mintute intervals. The centre of the dial is kept clear for improved legibility of the hands, and there are Explorer-style hour markers at 3, 6, and 9.