Pocket watches commissioned by the British government for military issue during the 1930s and 40s were often engraved with the initials G.S./T.P., for General Service / Trade Pattern. While many Swiss manufacturers produced these watches, the pattern remained the same- a black or cream dial with Arabic numbers at each hour, some filled with luminous material. There was a subsidiary dial at 6 for the seconds hand, and the maker’s signature, from the likes of Jaeger LeCoultre, Helvetia, Buren, Leonidas, and many others, was printed at 12. The dial was designed for maximum legibility, and the large 19’” gilt jewelled movements were built to be reliable and hard-wearing.
GS/TP (General Service Time Piece) wristwatches are designed in England by William Kroll, of Tender Co., and take inspiration from the British military and ordnance instruments of the first half of the 20th Century. They are produced in a small factory in Tokyo, housing movements made in Japan by Miyota and Seiko-Epson. Orders are dispatched from the Tender Stores, in the UK.

GS/TP’s Goliath Journey dial is an interpretation of the large station clocks on the British railways. The double rail minutes track with large triangle and diamond shaped 5-minutes markers, and odd-hour numerals allow for quick and precise timekeeping at a glance across a crowded platform.

Special Edition hand-wound blackout watch cases have been vapour-coated with a hard matt black surface. During World War II, British towns and cities were subject to a ‘dim-out’, where no light brighter than moonlight was permitted, or full black-outs, during air raids, where no light at all was allowed, and windows were fully shuttered. Military equipment was blackened to prevent reflections being spotted by enemy aircraft. The Sector dial is inspired by 1930s wristwatch dials, divided into distinct areas, radiating from the centre.

GS/TP’s Telegraph watch draws influence from Morse Code operator’s pocket watches produced in the early 20th Century by various makers, including the West End Watch Co. of St-Imier, Switzerland. Rather than spelling out full numbers to express times, using these watches as a key the time could be tapped out as a single letter, from ‘A’ at 1am to ‘Z’ at midnight. AM times are printed in red around the outer ring, and PM is in blue.

The Bow Tie watch dial is inspired by Rolex cocktail watches of the 1930s, often cased in British-made Dennison silver or gold bubble back cases. The dial is divided into elegant quadrants of grey and cream ink, and has correspondingly smaller Arabic numerals, however the chunky custom-made steel ‘Frog’ case maintains the rugged appeal of a vintage tool watch.

GS/TP’s Goliath Recorder dial is adapted from early pilots’ watches, which had a rotating bezel with a pointer which could be lined up with the minutes hand. By using the precise scale around the outside of the hours markers (numbered in 10 minute intervals) the wearer could keep a record of elapsed time. This allowed the watch to act as a basic chronograph without a more complicated movement. 

The Fried Eggs watch takes its dial layout from a British compass of the type used by the Ordnance Survey. Compass points have been replaced with large numbers at 12,3,6, and 9, with a full railway minutes track and dashes at the half-hours. The unnumbered hours are marked with ‘fried eggs’, filled off-centre with thick egg yolk paint, echoing the design of the markers on Universal Genève’s iconic Polerouter Submariner watches of the early 1960s.

This dial design recalls the leaf aperture of a mechanical camera lens. The concentric rings of dashed minutes markers have alternate spaces, forming a spiral pattern which starts as a full hour set in the outermost ring, and ends with hash markers for odd hours, and numerals for even hours, in the innermost ring.

The Trade Pattern watch takes its name from the standard design for British army pocket watches produced during World War II. Indices are heavily filled with yolk-coloured paint, and a full railroad minute track allows for precise timekeeping. Note the unpainted markers at 6, which would have been overlapped by a small seconds dial in the original pocket watches.

GS/TP watches are made and assembled in Tokyo. Accurate and dependable Japanese movements are housed in three-part cases, custom-milled from stainless steel blocks, with engraved crowns and crystals. Hands are pressed from sheet steel, and are blued or polished, depending on the dial colour with which they are to be paired, before being filled egg-yolk yellow, by hand. The dials are cut from brass, dial feet are soldered into place to locate the dial onto the movement, and the dials are painted with a base layer of black or cream before being pad printed. Pad printing requires a soft etched pad to be inked and stamped precisely onto the dial, leaving a clean, slightly raised design. Separate pads are used for each colour printed onto the dial. Watches are then assembled and adjusted by hand, using fine hand tools.

Hand-wound Complete dial watches, with Military Black or Belfast Grey pad-printed brass faces, reference watches made for the American military. The outer track shows minutes and seconds, with dashes at each index, and a two-digit marker at the 5s. Stepped in from that are even-numbered hour markers, filled with egg yolk yellow paint, and spaced with spots at the odd-numbers hours. The inner ring shows odd-numbered PM hours in 24-hour military format.

GS/TP’s Goliath Navigator design is inspired by the large multi-register aeroplane navigator watches of the 1950s. It has a full 60-minutes track with inner and outer markers at 5-mintute intervals. The centre of the dial is kept clear for improved legibility of the hands, and there are Explorer-style hour markers at 3, 6, and 9.

The hand-wound Cherry Pie watch dial has even number hour spots filled with cherry red paint, based on a modified Moeris A.T.P (Army Trade Pattern) example from the 1940s. The radial dial markings, separating the slices of the pie, mark the half hours, with 24 hour indices at the odd hours. The handwinder arrow logo is at 6 o’clock, and the polished steel hands have been filled cherry red to match the dial.